By the early 1970s, the popularity of the convertible was waning due to the lack of creature comforts. Features such as air-conditioning and stereo sound systems were previously not offered in convertibles and were now desired by the consumer. Also, in an effort to appeal to the family, a larger car with a full-size rear seat was what Detroit thought would revive this slump in sales.
In 1971, General Motors released a whole new concept in the hideaway convertible top design. All five GM divisions offered the newly developed Hideaway Top in their full-size models. This style of folding top frame soon became better known as the scissor top because of the unique way it folds and stacks behind the rear seat of the car. Cadillac was the last of the American auto manufacturers to produce a convertible model car until the 1980s. The final Eldorado convertible was produced on April 21, 1976.
A reintroduction of the American convertible happened in 1982 with the Chrysler LeBaron. Next to offer a convertible top option was General Motors with the 1983 Buick Riviera, and soon after Ford with the Mustang convertible.
This 1976 Cadillac Eldorado was one of the last American convertibles produced for the era. The unique way that the top folded was stylish and yielded more passenger space, but it proved to be very problematic and difficult to service.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, CONVERTIBLE TOP RESTORATION AND INSTALLATION. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post In Facebook Groups or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
https://www.musclecardiy.com/uncategorized/how-to-install-a-new-scissor-convertible-top-part-1/
Replacing a Scissor Top
Putting on a new top and curtain in a full-size GM car is not an easy task. These frames operate much differently and require a much stronger skill set than any other convertible top. Correcting problems that have developed over the years can become expensive and frustrating.
I highly recommend that you contact Convertible Service and get a copy of the GM Full Size Convertible Top Manual before you begin. There are a lot of diagrams and procedural information in the manual that will guide you through the proper way to install your new top.
One of the first things that you will notice about the top frame is that there are no hydraulic cylinders used to move the top down and up. Another thing that jumps out at you is that the top frame folds in upon itself as it folds away behind the rear seat of the car, almost like something from a Transformers movie.
This excerpt from the GM service manual is a must-have item when working on the scissor top. Inside are many detailed drawings and step-by-step procedures that will help get your convertible back into proper working order.
This top actuator is one of two that work in unison to make the top go up and down. They have taken the place of the traditional hydraulic cylinders used on conventional convertible tops. Inside the device are gears driven by a square cable that is connected to an electric motor.
Taking the place of the hydroelectric pump on a traditional convertible is this small electric motor. The motor is activated by a small relay that tells the motor which direction to turn the square steel drive cables that connect to the top actuators.
Getting Started
Before unlatching the top from the windshield, check the trunk of the car and verify that there is nothing in the well area. Removing any and all objects from the rear of the car will prevent the rear glass from being broken when the top is lowered.
Drape the back of the car to protect the paint from damage before any work begins. Now, unlatch the top and operate it through its complete cycle. Determine if there are any issues with the way it operates by lowering it and then raising it fully.
Begin by lowering the top into the well of the car. As the top folds, watch and listen to isolate any binding or grinding sounds that could indicate that there is a problem with the top frame. As the top frame begins to lower, the right side rail will fold inward followed by the left side rail. The rear window or curtain will begin to retract into the well and make room for the top frame to nest or stack.
Inside the trunk of the car we can see that there are spring-loaded retractors to aid in repositioning the rear glass window. The area under the well liner must be kept clear of all objects to prevent the glass from being crushed when the top is retracted.
Before any work begins to replace the old convertible top, a protective padding is applied to the back of the car to shield the paint from any accidental damage that could happen while the new top is being installed.
The retainer clip that held the spring actuator in place on the rear window control link broke and caused our rear window to malfunction. Consequently, during the test run on this project, the window was broken when the top retracted into the well of the car.
Raise the top and latch it to the windshield. Make notes on any problems that were encountered during the inspection of the convertible top. These issues must be corrected before the new top is installed.
One of the more obvious problems encountered during a test on a 1976 Cadillac Eldorado was a failure with the spring-loaded rear window retractor that resulted in a broken rear curtain. An unsuitable retainer pin clip was used to hold the retractor rod in place, and it broke, causing the spring-loaded retractor to jam and the glass to retract improperly. As the top frame folded, it crushed the glass. Nothing else was bent or broken, but it made a mess. The problem is simple to resolve by replacing the incorrect pins and washers with the correct ones.
Disassembly
To make access to the well area, remove the rear seat’s bottom cushion by pushing in and lifting the cushion up and out of the car. A T50 Torx bit is used to remove the seat belt retractors that anchor the rear seat’s backrest to the car before it can be removed and set aside. Now, use a panel clip lifting tool to remove the fasteners holding the boot retainer along the top of the well liner. Then, lift the retainer and well liner away from the backrest support.
Disassembling the Top
A panel clip lifting tool is used to remove the small fasteners retaining the boot fastener along the top edge of the seat support. After the fasteners have been removed, the well area of the car can be easily accessed to reach other components.
Lower the convertible top into the well of the car to gain access of the rubber weatherstrip. Use a screwdriver to remove the retainer screws from the outer corners of the rubber weatherstrip that are found on the underside of the header bow.
While the convertible top is in the lowered position, a panel clip tool is used to access the small plastic T-fasteners holding the rubber weatherstrip onto the underside of the header bow and lift them out of their retainer holes.
Remove the front weather seal from the leading edge of the header bow with a staple puller. The weather seal has a 1/2-inch foam core, and it is the first line of defense to repel the wind and rain on a convertible top.
During the removal of the top material from the header bow, we soon realize that the tack strip material is damaged and no longer serviceable. Fortunately, the metal retaining tabs underneath are still in good condition and able to hold the new tack strip.
With the convertible top material pulled back from the header bow, the leading end of the side hold-down cable is visible. The cable end is released from the header bow by unfastening the trim screw that retains it in place on the bow.
Lower the top into the well and remove the inner rubber weather seal from the underside of the header bow. The rubber weatherstrip is held on the head header bow with small retainer screws and little T-fasteners that are inserted into the rubber of the weatherstrip. Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws at the ends of the rubber weatherstrip. Use a panel-lifting tool or a small pair of pliers to lift the plastic T-fasteners holding the body of the weatherstrip from the header bow.
Stapled across the leading edge of the header bow is the front weather seal. Removal of the weather seal can be done with a staple puller. Once the weather seal has been removed, it can be discarded.
While the top is still retracted, remove the staples across the leading edge of top material to release the material from the header bow tack strip. The condition of the header bow tack strip is most likely marginal, so it will have to be replaced after the top frame has been stripped, adjusted, and cleaned.
Raise the top about a foot from the windshield and pull back the top material from the header bow to reveal the side hold-down cables. The cables are attached to the header bow with a trim screw. Remove the screw and lift the end of the cable-free from the top frame. Halfway back there is another short secondary cable that is part of the main cable. This secondary cable controls the action of the first bow and keeps it stable as the top is lowered and raised. Remove the small screw that holds the secondary cable to the first bow.
Control Links
Connected to a small bracket on the lower corner of the rear window are spring-activated control links. This device helps retract the rear window deeper into the well of the car to prevent the glass from getting broken when the top is retracted. They need to be disconnected so that the rear curtain assembly can be removed from the car and replaced.
While the top is still about a foot off the windshield, move to the rear and disconnect the spring-loaded guide links from the rear curtain. At the lower corner of the window you will see a bracket on each side that has a small, metal rod pinned to the bracket. The control link is under tension from a heavy spring in the trunk, so be very careful when working with the control link.
Connected to the rear window is the control link. This vital component aids in the proper retraction operation of the rear window. A small pin clip retains a washer and the upper portion of the control link arm to the rear curtain bracket.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the fasteners holding the side rail weather seals to the convertible top frame. Access to the lower screw sometimes requires the convertible top to be lowered about halfway down so that it can be reached.
Pull the pin that holds the control link to the bracket, and then remove the retainer washer. There is a small nylon bushing that a small rod goes through. Do not lose the nylon bushing when you remove the rod from the bracket. Hold the control link firmly and gently pull it from the bracket. Remember there is tension on the control link, so do not let it just snap out of control. After the control links have been disconnected from the rear curtain brackets, slide the control arms though the opening in the well liner and rest them on the floor of the well area.
Now, lower the top about halfway to gain better access to the rear rubber side rail weather seal fasteners. Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws that hold the seal to the side rail. With the seals removed, you can now peel back the rear vertical side flaps that are glued to the side rail of the convertible top frame.
Rear Assembly Removal
Removing the rear curtain assembly from the car is not as difficult as it is cumbersome. Access to the mounting bolts is tight, and when they are removed, the entire rear frame section comes out of the well area as one unit.
Begin by lowering the top so that the header bow is a few inches off the windshield. Inside the rear quarter of the well are a lot of pivot points and many bolts that hold the convertible top frame to the car. Locate the lower main hinge bolt and use a 5/8-inch wrench to remove it. The retaining nut for the bolt is permanently attached to the rear tack rail.
Removing only the required bolts from the rear curtain assembly can be somewhat challenging. Shine a flashlight to illuminate the main lower bolt on the frame assembly to isolate the correct fastener so that it can be removed easily.
Important Tip
Be careful when removing or installing nuts and bolts so you do not drop the hardware into the forward wheel well. It is very difficult to retrieve anything that goes into no-man’s-land. ■
Remove the forward nut and bolt from the main hinge with two different wrenches. The locking nut requires a 9/16-inch wrench, and the pivot bolt uses a 5/8-inch wrench. It is a tight workspace, but it is easy to manage when the top is lowered about halfway.
Lower the top about halfway to make access easier to the forward bolt and nut on the main hinge. Removal of the lock nut requires a 9/16-inch wrench. Loosen the nut and set it aside. The bolt can be loosened with a 5/8-inch wrench and unthreaded from the pivot point. The bolt passes through a bronze bushing. Do not lose the bushing because it must be in place when the unit is reassembled. Now that one side is unbolted, remove the same bolts from the other side.
Rain Gutter Clips
The scissor top has a soft cloth rain gutter that is made out of convertible top material. The rain gutter is attached with staples to the rear tack rail along one edge. It is attached on the other edge with a steel rod that runs through the length of the gutter, anchoring on each side of the top frame through a hole on the upper wheel well support.
From inside the trunk area, access the five retainer clips that hold the rain gutter to the beltline of the well opening. These clips can be opened to release the retaining rod inside the gutter so that the rear curtain unit can be removed from the car.
To release the rain gutter from the car, crawl into the trunk to unclip the retaining rod from the beltline of the well opening. There are five metal clips that hold the gutter in place. There is a clip on each side of the trunk hinge and one in the center. Use a pry tool to bend the clip enough to release the gutter rod.
Move the front of the retaining rod forward to release it from the body of the car.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, CONVERTIBLE TOP RESTORATION AND INSTALLATION. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post In Facebook Groups or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
https://www.musclecardiy.com/uncategorized/how-to-install-a-new-scissor-convertible-top-part-1/
Lifting the Rear Assembly
To remove the rear tack rail and curtain assembly from the well of the car, use a pry bar. The pry bar helps you move the assembly far enough forward to come out of the well. Work one side forward and then the other until you can lift one rear corner of the assembly out. Then do the other. Rest the assembly on the protected deck of the car.
Removing the Rear Curtain and Accessories
Use a pry bar to assist in the removal of the rear curtain unit from the well area of the car. The unit is lifted from the well after moving it forward on both sides until there is enough room for the rear tack rail to clear the stainless outer molding.
To make installation of the new rear curtain quicker, make reference marks on the old top and curtain material to aid in the alignment of the new top components. A permanent marker is best suited for making the marks on the old material.
Along the edge of the rear tack rail are many staples that hold the old convertible top material, rear curtain, and other components in place. A staple puller makes quick work of lifting the staples to remove the old, worn-out material.
Before the old rear curtain material is removed from the rear tack rail, use a china marker to mark the leading edge of the rear curtain skirt onto the rear tack rail. This mark will help with the positioning and fitment of the new rear curtain when it is installed.
Side skirt material from the rear curtain extends around the rear tack rail to give support and help shape the sail area of the convertible top. Staples are removed from the lower edge of the rear curtain material with a staple puller.
An inspection shows that many cracks and small holes are compromising the integrity of the original rain gutter. Use a staple puller to remove the old rain gutter material from the rear tack rail so that a new rain gutter can be installed.
Marking the Edge Positions
Before removing the old top materials, mark the end locations of the old top onto the curtain and rear tack rail. These marks can be used as a reference guide when you reassemble the top. Mark the end position of the old material with a permanent marker or china marker to indicate the edge position of the top panels.
For better transfer of the marker, it may be necessary to first wipe the dirt away from the surface of the top. Mark both the leading and trailing edges of the sail panel onto the rear tack rail and the rear curtain before removing any staples. The top material can now be removed from the rear tack rail with a staple puller.
Rail Staples
To remove the top material from the rear tack rail, use a staple puller to lift the staples along the edge of the rail. The staples and tool are sharp, so take care while working. You do not want to slip and gouge yourself or the car with the tool.
Curtain Markings
With the top material out of the way, you will be able to see the side skirts of the rear curtain. Mark the forward edge of the curtain with a china marker to indicate the end points of the curtain on the rear tack rail.
Lower Curtain Edge Staple Removal
Use the staple puller to lift the staples along the tack rail to free the lower edge of the curtain. Reposition the curtain material out of the way by moving it into the well area to allow better access to the remaining staples holding the well liner and rain gutter to the rear tack rail.
Well Liner and Rain Gutter
At this point you may need to replace the well liner and rain gutter. If the material is sun faded, torn, or damaged in any way, it would be a good choice to remove the old item and replace it with a new one.
Remove the well liner material from the rear tack rail by pulling the staples along the rear tack rail to release the old well liner material.
The final piece attached to the rear tack rail is the rain gutter. The scissor top has a soft floating rain gutter that contains a metal rod that is located inside the gutter sleeve. It acts as a shape retainer for the gutter and also gives the well clips something to hold on to. If the overall condition of the original rain gutter is poor, it should be replaced with a new one.
The raw edge of the rain gutter is attached to the rear tack rail with staples. Use a staple puller to remove the staples along the rear tack rail to release the rain gutter.
Removing the Old Top
Depending on the condition of the convertible top that you are working on, the cross bow listings may have already come loose from the inside top decking. The cross bow listings are the last remaining items that are holding the convertible top material to the frame.
To remove the old convertible top material, the rear section of the top is folded forward to expose the staples along the center bow of the frame. Remove these staples to release the listing. Do the same for the front bow. Fold the material back and remove the staples.
Before the convertible top material can be removed from the frame of the car, the side tension cable needs to be disconnected from the rear inner bow. The cable can be removed from the cable sleeve in the old top and reused if it is found to be in good condition.
Pad Removal
Because the old pads are torn and damaged, they are no longer serviceable and must be replaced with new, modern pads. Begin with peeling back the old pad material from the rear curtain assembly and removing the foam padding that is glued to the rear curtain stretcher. Remove the staples along the center bow that are holding the pad to the bow.
This convertible top was in very poor condition when it first arrived in my shop. It is not surprising that the underlying cross bow listings and support pads were in shreds. This top should have been replaced many years ago.
Anchored to the center bow of the top frame is the rear cross bow sleeve. It has detached from the convertible top decking and is now being removed. Inside of the bow sleeve is a foundational tack strip that helped keep the bow sleeve straight when it was stapled to the cross bow.
Unhook the side tension cable from the post at the inside of rear tack rail, and remove it from the cable sleeve that runs along the inside edge of the convertible top. The old convertible top material can now be set aside. You can use it as a reference guide when you are installing the new convertible top material.
The underlying foam of the convertible top pad has been damaged, and it will no longer be able to protect the convertible top from the frame. After the old pad cover material is removed, discard the foam filler along with the rest of the old pad materials.
The front of each pad is attached to the header bow with trim screws. The screws should be under a piece of protective body tape. Lift the tape to reveal the trim screws and remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. The old pad is no longer usable and it can be discarded.
Curtain Removal
A row of staples across the leading edge of the rear curtain extender are removed with a staple puller. Once the rear curtain is removed from the frame, the real work of adjusting, cleaning, and repairing the convertible top frame can begin.
Do not discard the rear curtain at this time. You will need to transfer the reference marks made earlier to the new top material. This will help with positioning during the reassembly of the convertible top.
Finally, remove the rear curtain from the top frame. The leading edge of the rear curtain extension is attached across the center bow with staples. Remove the staples with a staple puller, and lift the rear curtain from the top frame.
Servicing the Frame
With all the convertible top materials removed from the top frame, inspect it for damaged and worn parts.
The first thing I noticed was that the bolt for the front bow side pivot bracket was repaired, and the hold-down hardware did not fit properly. After disassembly, I noticed the stud that was welded had some bunged-up threads. When I chased the threads with a thread-cutting die, the stud came off due to the poor quality of the welding that was done. The stud should have never been welded in the first place, and now the side rail is in unusable condition.
First I thought this meant I would need to replace the side rail, and that can be a considerable expense. Instead, I machined a new hole in the bushing and tapped it with new threads to accept a new stud. A new bolt was threaded into the fitting and red Loctite was used to permanently retain the bolt. The head of the bolt was cut off, and the bolt was dressed down to match the height of the other bow stud, resulting in a perfect repair.
More typical problems include bent and worn components that result in the frame not preforming correctly. Procedures for checking for these issues are addressed in the white paper offered by Convertible Service. This guide, along with the Fisher Service Manual, will help resolve your ailing top frame issues.
The top frame should also be adjusted to accommodate the window operation and fit. This is done prior to fitting the new convertible top, and adjustments are made in the usual way. Replace any worn or damaged tack strips, and then clean and paint the frame to give it a fresh appearance.
When the old convertible top material and pads are removed from the frame, take a closer look at what needs to be repaired or replaced. Sometimes it shocks me to see what someone else has done to repair a top frame.
After all of the previous rework was removed, the side rail was machined, and a new stud was added to replace the broken unit. After the Loctite had set up, the head of the bolt was cut off, and the remaining stud was ready for finishing.
This is the completed repair of the side rail. The new stud was dressed down to the height of the original, and the hardware was added and secured just as it should be. This repair will outlast the new top and perform like it was never damaged.
Now is a good time to check the movement of the top frame. You want to assemble the bare frame into the car and make sure that it performs properly before any new materials are added. If no other adjustments need to be made, the new top can be installed.
Rain Gutter
Prior to attaching the new rain gutter to the rear tack rail, the retaining wire will need to be inserted into the gutter sleeve. It is much easier to do this now compared to after the material is attached to the rear tack rail.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, CONVERTIBLE TOP RESTORATION AND INSTALLATION. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post In Facebook Groups or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
https://www.musclecardiy.com/uncategorized/how-to-install-a-new-scissor-convertible-top-part-1/
The new rain gutter is installed by stapling the raw edge of the material to the rear tack rail as it hangs downward across the rail. Beginning at the center point on the rear tack rail, the rain gutter is stapled in place by working from the center outward in both directions. Pull slightly on the gutter material to relieve any wrinkles as the fabric is stapled in place to the outer end of the tack rail.
Once the rear curtain assembly was removed from the car, we noticed that the condition of the original soft rain gutter was badly deteriorated and was no longer serviceable. A new rain gutter was made and stapled onto the rear tack rail.
Well Liner
The new well liner will drape over the top edge of the rear tack rail and hang down inside the well area of the car. Start stapling from the center point and move outward to the end of the tack rail in both directions. Keep the well liner material smooth and wrinkle free as you fasten it to the tack rail.
Rear Curtain Prep
Before the new rear curtain can be installed, some prep work is needed on the workbench to ready it for installation. The lower portion of the rear curtain is retracted into the well when the top is lowered by a pair of spring-loaded control links. The control links connect to the curtain by a small pin that passes through a metal bracket that is riveted in place along the lower corner of the glass window. The metal brackets can be reused or a new set can be acquired if the old set is damaged or deemed unusable.
Install the Link Brackets
First, remove the old control link brackets from the old curtain and transfer them to the new curtain.
Center the new well liner into position and staple it to the rear tack rail. Having a new well liner makes sense when the sun-faded and water-stained condition of the old well liner material left us no choice but to replace it along with the new top.
This is the new rear curtain unit that was just installed in the 1976 Cadillac. It took just a little more than two hours to prepare and refit the new curtain material to the convertible top frame. Great care was taken to make sure that the curtain will operate properly.
Installing the Link Brackets
Remove the old retractor bracket from the old rear curtain. A 1/8-inch drill bit is used to drill through the old rivets that secure the bracket to the curtain material. After the bracket is removed, it will be attached to the new curtain.
When the correct placement of the control-link guide bracket has been established, use a pencil to mark the position for the through holes that will need to be made in the rear curtain material. The holes will allow the pop rivets to pass easily through the curtain material.
Use a 1/8-inch punch to make a through hole in the lower portion of the rear curtain window material for a pop rivet. Use extra care when punching the through hole so that the glass window is not accidentally broken.
After the layout and positioning of the rear curtain window control link brackets have been determined, use three 1/8-inch aluminum pop rivets to secure each of the control link brackets to the lower portion of the rear curtain material.
The brackets were held in place with 1/8-inch pop rivets, and they must be drilled out to release them from the old curtain material. Place a small scrap of plywood under the bracket as a backer when drilling through the old rivet. The bracket is made of two pieces of metal: a front and rear flange. Use a 1/8-inch drill bit to drill through the rivet without harming the bracket.
Now that the old brackets are free, lay the new curtain out over a protective cover on the workbench. Place the front piece in position on the new curtain and mark the location of the rivet holes on the curtain with a pencil. The correct position for the bracket is with the relief line of the bracket parallel to the glass and the bottom edge of the bracket just above the stitching on the skirt of the curtain. Do not try to mount the bracket on the glass because that will break the glass.
Pre-punch holes for the rivets in the curtain material with a 1/8-inch hole punch. Use a backer under the material when using the punch to get a good, clean hole. Be very careful that you do not hit the glass window because it will shatter.
Rivet the two bracket pieces together with three 1/8-inch aluminum pop rivets with a 1/4-inch grip range. Insert the rivet from the outside through the bracket and curtain material and into the inside bracket. Make sure that you have a good solid connection. If the bracket is loose, it will eventually fail and tear out.
Place the old curtain on top of the new curtain and transfer the alignment marks that were made before the old curtain was removed. Use chalk to mark the alignment positions onto the new material.
Once you are finished riveting the brackets onto the new curtain, line up the old curtain on top of the new curtain. Transfer the alignment marks made during the disassembly process to the new curtain. Use a piece of chalk or a grease pencil to mark the new position indicators on the new curtain material.
When the transfer of reference marks to the new curtain is finished, clean off any dirt smudges that may have been made by the old curtain, and move the new curtain to the car for installation.
Curtain Install
Begin by aligning the center mark of the rear curtain extension on the center bow. The edge of the material should be flush with the forward rib on the bow. Staple the material every 2 inches across the bow from the center point outward on both sides. Do not staple the top pad cover flap to the center bow at this time; it will be finished later.
Move to the lower skirt of the curtain, align the center point on the rear tack rail, and put a staple at the center point to hold it in position. Align and staple the skirt every 2 inches horizontally along the tack rail. Apply slight pressure on the skirt to give it a little stretch as you staple to help eliminate any wrinkles in the material. Do not overstretch the material.
Only a few staples are used to temporarily hold the rear curtain extension in place to verify the correct positioning of the curtain material. After the lower portion of the curtain is secured, this top section can be adjusted to the correct tension.
Staple the rear curtain extension to the center bow of the convertible top frame. Notice that there are no staples in the pad flap of the extension material. This area will be filled with foam padding before it is finished.
Place a staple at the center point of the rear curtain skirt after it is positioned in place along the rear tack rail of the top frame. The position of the skirt is checked for alignment and centering before additional staples are added.
Staple the material up to the inside of the curtain flap, and then pull the material forward and over the staples to make the flap lie flat. Continue stapling every 2 inches until you reach the curtain end-point reference mark on the tack rail.
Protective Pad
After the curtain has been secured, the protective top pads can be installed. Normally, the protective top pads are installed first, but this is a scissor top, and nothing about this top is normal. The top pad is first secured along the center bow by opening the pad and stapling the deck material to the bow. Check the alignment of the pad by smoothing the pad forward toward the header bow, but do not attach it yet.
The pad is not secured to the first bow. This bow must be able to move without any additional restrictions. If the pad was attached to the bow, it would tear the pad and cause the top to bunch up, which would result in a broken rear window.
Insert the foam filler into the curtain extender pad flap all the way to the rear bow. Continue to fit it into the open pad up to the header bow. The flaps of the pad can then be closed over the foam to hold it in place. Fold the inside flap first and then the outer to prevent any ballooning that may happen when the car is driven. Staple the end of the pad closed along the center bow to hold the foam in place. Carefully trim any excess pad material from the end of the center bow, taking care not to cut into the curtain extender.
Use staples to anchor the base of the protective convertible top pad to the center bow of the top frame. The pad is applied on the inside of the rear curtain extension pad flap before it is filled with 1/4-inch foam padding.
There isn’t a tack strip at the header bow that the pad would be stapled to. The front end of the pad on the scissor top is secured to the header bow by four 1/2-inch washer-head trim screws. You will notice that there are five trim screws holes and a small tab slot. The outer trim screw and tab slot will be used for the side tension cable.
Begin attaching the inside corner of the pad with a trim screw. Smooth the pad material forward to keep it wrinkle free and continue adding the trim screws.
Seal the edges of the pad flaps with contact cement. Brush glue onto both mating surfaces of the pad and press them together to encapsulate the foam material. Also glue the rear curtain flap along the outer edge to seal in the foam pad.
Fit 1/4-inch foam padding into the open convertible top pad. The foam helps soften the frame against the convertible top material, preventing the top from chafing and abrasion while the top is run through the lowering and raising process.
Washer-head trim screws are used to secure and seal the front of the convertible top pad to the header bow. Screws are used to fasten the pads in this application because they hold the material more securely and can take the stress of the folding top much better than the traditional tack strip and staples.
Apply contact cement to the inside edge of the rear curtain extender flap by brush to seal in the 1/4-inch protective foam padding. Staple the leading edge of the flap closed to retain the foam padding in place.
After the rear curtain extender flap is filled with foam and glued closed along the outside edge, seal off the leading edge of the flap with a neat row of evenly spaced staples to keep the foam securely in place.
Apply a protective layer of Gorilla Tape over the tops of the center bow staples to prevent the top material from rubbing on the staples and causing abrasions during the folding process. The tape also smooths over the underlying surface to give the top a nice appearance.
The flap on the rear curtain extender is now secured to the center bow with a row of staples. The staples are then covered with Gorilla Tape to seal the staples from the weather and also protect the top material from rubbing on the staples.
Fitting the New Top
Before the new convertible top can be installed, there are a few items to address. The first is to locate the center point of the top so it can be properly positioned on the frame. Prep the new top by folding it in half, and use a china marker or pencil to mark the center point on the bow sleeves. This mark will be used to align the top to the frame.
Before the new top can be applied to the frame, determine a center reference line by folding the top material in half to create the alignment point. Make a mark along the fold on the inside bow sleeves with a china marker.
After the bow sleeves are marked, a 1/2×36-inch piece of upholstery tack strip can be inserted into the bow sleeve. The tack strip material is a medium-weight tagboard that will serve as a foundation for the bow sleeve to be fastened to the cross bow of the convertible top frame.
To keep the bow sleeve material straight along the edge of the cross bow and give something a little more substantial for the staples to hold on to, insert a piece of upholsterer’s medium-weight tack strip material into the bow sleeve.
Rear Bow Sleeve
Lay the new top over the frame and fold the rear section of the top material forward to reveal the rear bow sleeve. With the sleeve material flat and smooth, align the center mark on the bow sleeve with the center point of the center bow of the convertible top frame. Attach the material to the center bow with one staple.
Place a single staple at the center point of the bow sleeve to hold the top material in position after it was aligned on the center cross bow of the top frame. The single staple will allow you to check the overall spacing and alignment of the top material.
The completed row of staples in the rear listing on the center bow of the top frame is shown. A slight adjustment was made to the center point of the listing to get an even margin of top material on both sides of the frame rail.
Check the fit and spacing at each frame rail to make sure that the top material is positioned equally on both sides. The top material must be in the correct position and fit squarely on the frame, otherwise the new top will not fit right. Make any adjustments necessary before proceeding.
Smooth the bow sleeve along the center bow. Give it a slight pull as you staple it in place from the center outward on both sides from the center point. Place the staples about 2 inches apart and keep them parallel to the center bow.
Side Cables
Before the top is attached to the rear tack rail, insert the side hold-down cable into the top cable sleeve. The cable sleeve runs along underside of the outside edge of the convertible top. The purpose of the hold-down cable is to help keep the convertible top material tight to the side rails of the frame, preventing the top material from buffeting as the car is driven down the road.
Tie the supplied string inside the cable sleeve to the front fastener of the cable, and pull the cable through the sleeve. If the manufacturer of the top did not insert a string, then use a stiff wire to hook the cable to pull it through the sleeve.
There is also a special shunt cable attached to each side cable that emerges about 18 inches back from the front of the top through an opening in the cable sleeve. This cable is about 2 inches long, and it attaches to the outside end of the first bow with a 1/2-inch long #8 pan-head sheet metal screw. The shunt cable helps keep the first bow in proper position as the top is lowered and raised.
Built into the convertible top is a cable sleeve that runs along the outside edge of the top. The side hold-down cable is drawn into the sleeve with a string left there for this purpose by the top manufacturer. When the string is tied to the cable end, it can be simply pulled through the cable sleeve.
Exiting the forward end of the cable sleeve is the front side tension cable anchor plate. A small trim screw will be used to attach this end of the side tension cable to the header bow of the convertible top frame, keeping it securely in place.
One very unique feature of the scissor top is the small shunt cable that branches off of the side tension cable. This short stubby cable emerges from the cable sleeve, and it will be connected to the outer end of the first bow to help control its movement.
Securing the Sail Panel
To secure the rear section of the convertible top to the rear tack rail, fold the top material back over the rear frame and align the inside edge of the window opening with the reference mark you transferred to the rear curtain. Center the material on the rear tack rail and place two staples in the material to hold it in position. Continue to move forward and fasten the sail panel material to the rear tack rail with staples about every 2 inches until the leading edge binding is 3/4 inch from the end of the tack rail. Place two staples at the end of the panel. Repeat this step for the other side of the top.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, CONVERTIBLE TOP RESTORATION AND INSTALLATION. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post In Facebook Groups or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
https://www.musclecardiy.com/uncategorized/how-to-install-a-new-scissor-convertible-top-part-1/
Install the rear curtain assembly into the well area of the car. Insert the ends of the rain gutter retainer wire into the retainer holes and lower the unit into the car.
For the rear curtain to perform as designed, the correct hardware must be properly installed to the rear curtain retainer bracket and lower control link–attaching stud. The hardware that was used on the top before we started working on it was not correct and had failed, leading to the glass window in our curtain to jam and break.
Reattach the rear window control links to the window brackets. Secure the links to the window brackets with the correct hardware. The nylon bushing must be able to pivot in the bracket on the rear curtain, and the lower pin bushing must slide easily along the long slot in the control arm. Once the pin and bushings are inserted, use the retaining washer and locking pin to hold them in place. If you use the incorrect hardware, your rear glass curtain can malfunction and end up broken.
A staple has been used to secure the new top material to the rear tacking rail after it has been properly aligned to the reference guide mark transferred from the original top. A minimal number of staples are used until the material fits perfectly.
With the rear quarter sail panel of the convertible top aligned into position and properly adjusted to relieve any wrinkles in the material, the panel has been evenly stapled along the rear tack rail to hold the material securely in place.
Secure the rear assembly to the car with the correct mounting bolts. Make sure that the pivot bushings are in place before installing the bolts. Raise the top and check the fit of the top material for wrinkles. You may need to remove the assembly to make any necessary adjustments to the sail panels to remove any wrinkles that may still be in the panels.
Install a new hairpin clip on the upper control link stud to ensure that the control link will operate as it was designed to. Using makeshift hardware will result in an eventual failure of the control link, leading to a broken rear window.
Once you are satisfied with the look of the top material, the rain gutter can then be attached. From the inside of the trunk, reposition the rain gutter retainer rod back into the body, and secure the rod with the five retainer clips.
Front Bow Sleeve
Move to the front of the top and fold the material back to reveal the front bow sleeve. Adjust the tack strip so that it is centered inside the bow sleeve. Align the centerline of the bow sleeve with the center point of the bow, and place a staple through the bow sleeve and tack strip into the bow. Work your way from the center to the outer edges, stapling every 2 inches. The deck material of the top should be smooth and flat. Work out any wrinkles in the material before proceeding with the top installation.
A row of staples holds the front bow sleeve to the first bow. Inside the bow sleeve is a cardboard tack strip that acts as a foundation for the staples, allowing the bow sleeve to lie straight and smoothly across the surface of the first bow.
Attaching the Cable
Lower the top about a quarter of the way down to give you enough slack to fasten the side cable to the header bow. Fit the tab of the side tension cable into the small slot in the header bow and secure the cable end with the correct trim screw. Cover the screw heads with Gorilla tape to protect the top from being damaged by the tops of the screws.
While the top is still retracted, attach the shunt cable to the front bow with a 1/2-inch #8 pan-head sheet metal screw. The screw goes into the end of the tack strip material on the bow. The shunt cable is an important feature for the scissor top to function properly. If the cable is not attached to the bow, the bow will move incorrectly and damage the top and other parts of the top frame.
Side tension cables are used to help keep the convertible top material from buffeting when the car is moving at higher speeds. Fasten the cable end to the header bow with a trim screw to keep it from pulling loose when the top is latched.
A protective layer of Gorilla Tape is used to shield the inside of the top decking from the heads of the pad’s fastener screws. Without the protective layer of tape, the top material can become damaged by rubbing on the screw heads.
To ensure that the first bow moves properly, use a small pan-head sheet metal screw to attach the shunt cable in the end of the bow. The shunt cable is part of the side tension cable that helps hold the top material tight to the frame.
Bow Fix
If the shunt screw is too loose and does not tighten, it may be necessary to add a sliver of waterproof panel-board material into the hole to help give the screw some bite. In some cases, the tack strip material is severely damaged or missing altogether. If you encounter this condition, a small block of aluminum can be fashioned to fit into the end of the bow and staked into place. The shunt cable can then be attached by drilling a hole in the end of the aluminum block and tapping the block to accept a #8-32 machine screw.
Secure the Leading Edge
Raise the top and latch it to the windshield. Pull the top decking over the front of the header bow. With a pencil or chalk, mark the leading edge of the header bow onto the top material. This will give you a reference as to how much to pull the top when it is fastened to the header bow.
Unlatch the top from the windshield and lower the top until it is almost vertical. Begin at a front corner and pull the top material over the edge of the header until the reference line is about 1/4 inch past the edge of the header bow. Align the bound outside edge of the top with the outer edge of the header and fold the front retainer flap inward. Tuck the flap under the top decking, and staple the top material to the tack strip that is on the underside of the header bow. Repeat this on the other corner of the top.
Work inward to the deck seam, keeping the same distance on the reference line, and add two more staples. Raise the top, latch it to the windshield, and then check to see how much more tension you may need to put on the top decking to relieve the slack in the top material.
Continue this process of adjusting the top decking until the top material is evenly tensioned on the top frame. Then, finish stapling across the header bow every 2 inches to secure the top decking to the header bow.
Make a chalk mark as a reference line across the leading edge of the top decking material to help with the tensioning of the top material. Without a visual guide, it would be very difficult to reposition the top material to eliminate unwanted wrinkles in the top decking.
The wrinkle that has formed in the top decking material at the center bow will need to be removed. Correcting this condition can be done by pulling the top material over the header bow and adding more tension to the top material.
Weather Seals
Size and fit the 1/2-inch rubber-core weather seal to the leading edge of the header bow. Lower the top until it is almost vertical, and attach the weather seal by blind stapling it to the tack strip on the underside of the header bow. Apply contact adhesive to the inside of the weather seal to protect and conceal the staples from the weather.
Install the rubber lower weather seal to the underside of the header bow. The rubber seal is held in place on the header bow with small plastic T-fasteners and trim screws. Snap the T-fasteners into the holes along the underside of the header bow, and use the correct mounting screws at the outer corners of the seal to anchor the seal in place.
While the top is still retracted, reinstall the rubber rear quarter roof rail weather seals. After the weather seals are secured to the top frame, the convertible top can be raised and locked to the windshield.
The Finished Top
At this point, inspect the top for any imperfections and clean away any smudges or fingerprints that may have been left behind while you were working on the top installation. Give the top a good steam to help relax away any leftover box wrinkles. Carefully run the top through the down-and-up sequence, and make sure that the top folds correctly. Be absolutely sure that there is nothing in the trunk area that could possibly cause the rear curtain to jam, otherwise it will be crushed when the top is folded.
The main weather seal is blind stapled to the underside of the header bow to shield and protect the staples from rusting due to the elements. This larger rubber-core seal is the primary barrier to divert wind and rain from entering the car.
One of the very last things to do is refit the rear quarter rubber weather seal on the Eldorado. The top has been retracted to make the installation and access to the screws much easier. The weather seal also helped hold the rear side flap in position on the frame rail.
Small trim screws are installed at the ends of the inner rubber weather seal to keep it from shifting out of place. The main body of the weather seal is held in place by small plastic T-fasteners that push into small holes in the header bow.
The new top installation has been completed and tested on the Cadillac Eldorado. After a final inspection and a little steam to remove some of the box wrinkles, this Detroit classic is ready for the open road and many more years of enjoyment.
Written by Fred Mattson and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK!
If you liked this article you will love the full book!