The single biggest weakness of any Buick engine is the oiling system. The original design of the oiling system has more than a few issues, including small oil feed holes, misaligned bearings, and poor cam and lifter oiling. All of these issues are easily fixed if you take the time to learn the proper techniques and buy the right parts. The next two chapters focus on the 350 and 455 family and 3.8-liter-engines; Nailhead engines do not have the oiling issues the others have. To understand how to fix the oiling issues, knowing the path the oil takes is important.
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On every Buick engine except the Nailhead, the oil pump is located in the timing cover and powered by the distributor. It’s driven from an integral drive gear on the camshaft. The pump draws oil from a 1/2-inch oil pick-up tube (5/8-inch on 1971 and later 455s) on the passenger side of the oil pan. The pump gears are pressurized and the oil is forced through the oil filter. Then, oil is sent to the crankshaft through holes in the main bearing journals. Next, oil is pumped to the connecting rods through passages in the crankshaft. At the same time, oil is pumped up to the passenger-side lifter galley, across the front cam bearing to the driver’s side lifter galley. For 455, 1970 and later 350, and 400 Stage 1 engines, pressurized oil from the lifters is pushed up through hollow pushrods and enters the rocker at the pushrod tip and oils the rockers. The 1968–1969 non-Stage 1 400, 430, and 350 engines use specific rocker arm shafts to oil the rockers and pushrod tips. These engines use solid pushrods. While these pushrods are still available, the conversion to the later (and more efficient) hollow-pushrod design is simple and will be discussed in the next chapter.
Disassembly and Modification
The block should be fully disassembled and cleaned before any modifications are made. Each engine build is different, so how deep you go into the engine determines how much you will modify. If you are boring the engine, oil system modifications should be done before the machine work, so you have a perfectly clean and prepped block that’s ready to be built. These mods are not an absolute must, but since the engine is apart, it’s a good idea to do them. Each of these modifications can be performed on all of the later Buick blocks. However, some of the hole sizes may be different.
Cleaning up the 3.8-liter V-6 turbo bores is a quick way to increase the speed at which the oil returns to the pan. A basic clean-up gets the job done.
Here is the difference in the stock casting and the cleaned-up section.
Cleaning up the flashing on the casting should be done on every engine build. It is quick, easy, and results in faster oil flow from the rockers back to the pan. Mount the engine on a rotating stand. A die-grinder with a fine carbide cone bit is the best tool to use for this job. Smoothing out the flashing in the lifter galley is most important. The idea is to eliminate the rough edges that will catch the oil and inhibit its downward flow. Perform a basic cleanup and don’t go crazy. The Buick engines don’t have a lot of material around the lifter bores, so you don’t want to remove too much material and create a problem. Use the same process for cleaning up the casting flash around the main webs. This job isn’t mandatory, but it will certainly reduce the chances of them becoming a stress riser and cracking. If you are building a severe-duty engine, this is a really good idea.
In addition to cleaning up the flashing around the lifter bores, adding a lifter bore girdle is required when a roller cam is used. There are bolt-in lifter girdles and custom-built epoxied-in units. These are only necessary when using a roller cam, and will be discussed further in Chapter 9: Race Engines.
The weak lifter bores need to be reinforced for a high-lift cam profile or roller lifters. The bores will break out under the outward stress from the lifters. This TA Performance bolt-in lifter girdle is a simple way to eliminate the problem.
Now that everything is trimmed up, the real work can begin. On the main bearing journals, the number2, -3, and -4 oil-feed holes should be opened up. Do this by drilling the original 1/4-inch hole with a 5/16-inch drill bit. It is extremely important to start the drilling straight on the hole, or you run the risk of running off the edge of the corresponding cam bearing. These holes must be drilled all the way past the cam bearing, to a depth of 3-3/4 inches; a standard-length drill bit should be able to accomplish this task; just make sure it is sharp. The stock main bearings (on a 350) have a 3/16-inch hole in them. If you are leaving the stock oil holes alone, the main bearing holes should be opened up to 1/4 inch; if you are making the previously mentioned modification, the bearing holes should be opened up to the corresponding 5-1/16-inch size.
The number-2, -3, and -4 main bearing saddle oiling holes on this 350 were opened up from 1/4 inch to 5/16 inch, while being careful not to hit the cam bearing. These holes must go to a depth of 3-3/4 inches.
Main bearing oil hole alignment is one of the biggest problems with Buick engines. To check this, you will need either the original bearings, or even better, the bearings used in the rebuild. On our 350, we found the number-2, -3, -4, and -5 main journals had to be corrected. This is a very important step — if you skip it, you could end up covering more than half of the hole, which could result in a catastrophic failure. Once the problems have been identified, the fix is pretty simple. With the bearing in place, mark the journal inside the hole where the misalignment occurs. Using the die-grinder with the cone carbide, chamfer the oiling holes where the journal was marked. This allows the oil to easily enter the bearings and not get hung up on the edges. It is all right if the hole ends up slightly larger than the bearing hole, just as long as they line up afterwards. This step should be done on every single Buick engine build: stock, high performance, or race.
The bearing oil feed holes must be enlarged. Otherwise, the block mod does no good.
Checking the bearings for alignment is important. This must be correct in order to get adequate oiling.
The next step is to open up the main oil suction feed on the front of the block. This step is paramount to increasing the oil flow to the rest of the engine. Use a 12-inch long 1/2-inch drill bit, and drill the suction side oil galley from the front of the block to the oil pick-up tube. Patiently drill and add cutting oil as you go. Don’t try to do this all at once. Drill about an inch, pull the bit out, remove the chaff from the drill bit, and proceed another inch or so. Be sure to keep the bit level and do not go off at an angle. This passage is 10-1/2 inches deep, so take your time and be patient. You can do all the drilling with a cordless drill, but it’s much better to use a corded drill because the lighter weight will reduce the strain on your arms and allow you to drill level. Another plus of a corded drill is more torque and no recharge time.
Using a carbide tip, chamfer the edge of the hole in the bearing saddle. This had to be done to the number-2, -3, -4, and -5 saddles.
Rechecking the bearing shows a proper fit.
On the 350, the oil suction passage from the block to oil pump hole needs to be enlarged to 1/2 inch. The passage is 10-1/2 inches deep.
Enlarge the oil pick-up tube passage to 1/2 inch. This will intersect the previous passage at 3 inches.
The main oil-feed passage needs to be opened from the oil-pressure sending unit to just short of the main cam bearing. The depth is 4 inches, and it’s drilled out to 7/16 inch. The passage can be opened up to 1/2 inch, but it requires tapping the oil sensor to a 3/8-inch pipe thread.
Again, drill slowly and keep the drill depth to 4 inches. Using cutting oil makes the work a little easier and keeps the chaff from binding up the bit. Pull the bit out of the hole after drilling each inch, and clean off the chaff.
The 350 requires the following procedure: Drill the oil pick-up tube passage to 1/2 inch. This will intersect with the previous passage from the front of the block. The depth on this passage is 3 inches. Again, take your time and use cutting oil — it will help.
The previous step can also (and should) be performed on the early big blocks (1968–1970 400, 430, and 455 engines). In 1971, Buick realized the 1/2-inch suction feed line was not adequate and bumped the oil pick-up tube size to 5/8 inch. Opening the 1/2-inch passage in the 400 and 430 blocks to 9/16 inch is sufficient; the 455 blocks can be drilled to 5/8 inch. Whether you choose to drill the passage or leave it as is, the 5/8-inch pick-up tube should used in all big-block builds.
Buick engines tend to lose oil pressure to the lifters over time. The problem is the way Buick engines feed the lifters. The oil must travel across the front cam journal before it feeds to the driver-side lifters. After the engine has some miles on it (typically after 10,000 miles), the cam bearing begins to fill the oiling hole with bearing material, cutting off the oil supply to the driver-side lifters. Part of the fix for this is to open the main feed line from the pump to passenger side lifter galley. By using a 12-inch-long 7/16-inch drill bit, the passage will be opened up enough to add significant flow to the lifter galley and more pressure to the cam bearing. This passage runs from the oil-pressure sending unit to just shy of the front cam bearing, a depth of 4 inches. Using the 7/16-inch bit, the threads for the sending unit will remain untouched (if you are careful). You can open this to 1/2 inch, but that will require retapping the oil-pressure sending-unit hole to 3/8-inch pipe thread from the factory 1/4-inch thread.
For the 3.8-liter turbo engines, there are a couple of extra steps that should be taken, because the oil pump not only feeds the engine but the turbo, as well. In high-performance street and street/strip engines, deburring and smoothing out the oil-pump walls provides a serious increase in oil flow. Extreme-performance engines, such as full-race applications, should have an external oil line running from the turbo oil supply fitting to the passenger-side lifter oil galley in the rear of the block. This external line will increase volume and pressure to the rear mains and rod bearings because oil is being supplied from both the front and the rear ends of the oil galley, rather than just from the front. To accomplish this, the turbo-feed fitting at the block (front, passenger side) is drilled to 9/16 inch to just before the cam bearing as in the 350 and big-block engines. Then, using a 19/32-inch standard drill bit, the passage is drilled 1 inch deep. The threads must be retapped to 3/8-inch pipe thread to accommodate the new fitting and 3/8-inch external line.
Crankshaft Mods
There are two camps when it comes to increasing the oiling capability of the crankshaft. One side advocates cross-drilling the crank, while the other group argues that cross-drilling weakens the crank, and therefore the best bet is to use fully grooved main bearings. Here are the advantages and drawbacks for both:
Cross-drilling the crankshaft supplies more oil to the crank, and therefore the rods. By adding a second oil feed hole, oil is supplied to the crank during its entire rotation. Otherwise, with a half-groove main bearing, oil is supplied to the rod bearings only when the oil feed passage aligns with the oil groove, which is about half the rotation of the crankshaft. This leaves the rods waiting for fresh oil for the second half of the crank rotation. Under high RPM, extreme heat is generated on the surface of the rod journal and rod bearing, requiring an abundant supply of oil to maintain reasonable temperatures. This is reason for continuous oil feed. Therefore, cross-drilling provides this constant supply of oil as one feed hole rotates past the oil feed groove, and the other feed hole enters into the groove.
The cheaper alternative is running a set of 3/4-inch groove bearings. This option slightly reduces the bearing surface but not enough to be an issue with a properly modified oiling system.
In the early 1970s Buick released a service bulletin instructing dealers to cross-drill the crankshaft for heavy-duty applications. This solution worked well for Buick and quite a few manufacturers. There are, however, a few drawbacks. With increasing RPM, centrifugal force pushed oil away from the center of the crankshaft. The oil pump must then overcome this force with higher pressure to continue to feed adequate oil volume to the rod bearings. The original oil feed hole is drilled at an angle, so the oil passes through the center of the main journal. The centrifugal force acting on that passage is not as high as the cross-drilled passage, so the oil pressure does not have to be as high. Cross-drilling a crank can actually force oil out of the hole and reduce oil flow to the rods. Some builders feel cross-drilling a nodular iron crankshaft will weaken the crank and lead to failure.
Engine builders on the other side of the fence recommend using fully grooved main bearings. These bearings feature 360-degree grooves, which accomplish the same thing as cross-drilling without the drawbacks of weakening the crankshaft and centrifugal force pushing the oil out. However, the proponents of cross-drilling believe that grooved bearings reduce the bearing surface too much, resulting in a shorter life. Since the big Buick crankshafts have such large main journals, this is a good point. If you are building a mild-performance engine and it won’t rev beyond 5,500 rpm, then the stock bearings and crank will be sufficient. If you are building anything more potent, then either method will increase oiling over stock. The simplest and most inexpensive method is to use fully-grooved bearings. As a side note, the 401- and 425-ci Nailhead engines came with grooved crankshafts, which do the same thing as grooved bearings.
TA Performance is one of several Buick specialists that offer fully grooved main bearings for the small-and big-block Buicks. Yet there are some other options. Federal-Mogul offers 3/4-grooved main bearings, leaving a little more bearing surface and saving the builder from cross-drilling the crank. The other option is to buy a standard set of main bearings and have them grooved at the machine shop. The number-5 main journal bearing should not be grooved, as this could lead to a leak at the back of the block.
Use high-quality bearings in the 3.8-liter turbo engines because a 6-cylinder engine puts more load on its main bearings. Federal-Mogul manufactures an aluminum alloy main bearing set for the turbo engine. These bearings offer a more accurate finish because they are bored to size, not stamped like other brands. The Federal-Mogul units have a smaller oiling hole than the feed holes in the block, so the bearings need to be drilled out to 5/16 inch in all 3.8-liter builds to increase oil volume. Once the bearings are drilled, they should be cleaned and deburred with a deburring tool and hit with an ultra-fine Scotch-Brite pad and motor oil. These bearings are of the 3/4-groove variety, which can be machined to fully grooved by your machine shop if you choose to have it done.
While on the subject of crankshafts, there is another inexpensive modification that adds extra insurance. Chamfering the oiling holes in the crankshaft allows the oil to flow inside the crank with less restriction and increase the area for the oil to move into the crank. Also, it is always a good idea to have the crank degreed and indexed. Most of the time, the stock crank is not accurately indexed, and the machine shop will perform this job to ensure the rod journals are 90 degrees apart. Indexing the crank takes the stroke and swing degrees and grinds the crank to match. This ensures proper crank timing, which is important for proper camshaft timing.
Close Bearing Tolerances
One of the most important steps in building any Buick engine is measuring bearing tolerances. Be careful when taking your Buick engine to a builder that specializes in Chevy engines. Chevy engines are built to run loose, running bearing tolerances .0035-inch and more. This is perfectly acceptable for a Chevy. If you run a Buick engine that loose, it will likely blow up before you can even shut the hood. Most Buick builders recommend a tolerance of .0020 inch for the number-1, -2, -3, and -4 main bearings for high-performance street or street/strip applications. For serious drag cars, a tolerance of 0.0025 inch is sufficient. For the number-5 rear main bearing, a 0.002 inch to 0.0025 inch tolerance is recommended for all engines. For the connecting rods, the same 0.002 inch to 0.0025 inch tolerances are recommended. The reason for the tight tolerances is due to fact that the Buick’s large 3.25-inch main bearing journal diameter requires more pressure to supply oil to the rod bearings. If you run the bearings loose, the oil will be allowed to squeeze out of the bearings, limiting supply to the rods. The stock specs on a 455 are 0.007 0.0011 inch, which is a little too tight for a high-performance Buick.
Checking the crank for clearances can be done with a micrometer or plastigauge. Most top-end builders only use precision tools, such as micrometers and calipers, but these tools can be expensive.
It is highly recommended that all 350 and big-block Buick cranks be turned down 0.010 inch. The reasoning being: most of these engines will not have maintained the factory tolerances and will have flat spots and be seriously out of specification. You can build a Buick without turning the crank this much, but to achieve the tight tolerances, it is a good idea to start with a smooth, concentric journal that will yield the best fit in the block. When checking your tolerances, there are two methods: Plastigauge and micrometers. Using micrometers is the most accurate, and therefore it is the method of choice. They are however, fairly expensive and can be confusing for the novice builder to use. Plastigauge is fairly simple to use and typically yields fairly accurate results. If you are building a mild street engine, plastigauge will probably get the job done, but for serious performance engines, a micrometer is the best way to ensure proper measurements. If you do not have access to a set of micrometers, most machine shops will measure the tolerances for a nominal charge. You should have this done when the machine work is performed to save some time and money.
We checked the main bearing clearances with a micrometer and dial bore gauge, and verified the measurements with plastigauge. Both readings were accurate. If you have the means, use the precision tools because they will always yield accurate results.
As for the 3.8-liter V-6 turbo, only turn the crank the minimum amount, and do not exceed 0.010 inch for any performance application. Be sure to tell your machine shop to cut the crank on the high side (tighter, less cut). The turbo engines need even tighter tolerances than the V-8s. A main bearing clearance should be 0.0015 to 0.002 inch (closer to the 0.0015-inch side is better), while the rod bearing clearance should run 0.0018 to 0.0025 inch. When using the 3/4-grooved main bearings, clearances run slightly larger but do not exceed the top end of the range.
Oil Pumps
There is one thing that cannot be said enough about high-volume oil pumps in a Buick engine: be very careful if you choose to run one. High-volume pump kits can damage your cam bearings if you use the wrong relief spring. Do not use the 60-lb spring (typically the red spring), because it is wound too tight. The coils tend to stick and bind before the relief valve can fully open, causing your pump to build oil pressures well over 100 psi. This high-pressure oil will cause your cam to float in the bearings, knocking on and destroying the bearings.
This TA Performance oil pump kit makes rebuilding the oil pump much simpler.
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Here the stock oil pump gears are compared to the high-volume pump gears. The 350 high-volume pump gear is the same size as the 455 stock gear (shown to the left). While most builders shy away from the high-volume pumps in big-block engines, the 350 readily accepts the high-volume pump with no issues. The gears on the right are stock 350 gears.
Most builders recommend a rebuilt oil pump with a minimum of 60 lbs. of pressure. An adjustable oil pressure regulator can supply this amount of pressure. If your tolerances are a little loose or if the engine will be spinning over 6,000 rpm, a high-volume pump is a good idea, but a stock pump will do the job. That said, the 350 does not have the same issues with high-volume oil pumps. In fact, the 350 high-volume pump gear is the same size as the stock 455 pump gear. For our 350 build, we chose to run the stock pump with a booster plate in the timing cover (this will be discussed in the next chapter). When assembling the oil pump, the end clearances should be kept to 0.002 to 0.003 inch. Once the oil pump is assembled, it should be packed with Vaseline or assembly lube. If this step is skipped, the pump will never prime.
The red spring on the left is the 60-psi high-volume spring. If you use this spring in a street-driven engine with the correct tolerances, the cam bearings will be destroyed from too much pressure. This spring can develop over 100 psi, which is just too much.
The pump build begins by refinishing the oil filter cover with a surfacing job. Lightly sand the cover with a piece of 220-grit sandpaper to even up the surface.
Check the end clearance once the pump gears are in place. There should be no more than 0.002-to 0.003-inch clearance. If the clearance is more than that, install high-volume pump gears.
The inner clearance must be checked, too. The gears require a clearance of 0.004 to 0.005 inch. If the clearance is 0.007 inch or more, then the timing cover is beyond specification and needs to be replaced.
With everything in check, the pump needs to be packed with either Vaseline or pre-lube.
If the pump is not packed with lube, it will never prime, leaving the engine completely without oil for the initial start up.
The oil filter housing was reinstalled and tightened down. An externally adjustable oil pressure regulator can be installed at the large hex-head bolt on the front of the filter housing.
If you are swapping a set of 400 or 430 heads to a 455 or converting a 400 or 430 block to pushrod-style rocker arm oiling, the oiling hole shown needs to be blocked. If you are running an early block, this can be accomplished with a 3/8-inch x 16 set screw. If you are running a 455, block the driver side only; block both sides for a 400 or 430 block.
The neoprene rear main seal is an important upgrade to the block oiling system. The stock-style rope seals simply do not work as well.
Do not leave out the factory windage tray. This tray prevents the crank from whipping the oil into a foam, and it keeps the oil from splashing on the crank and robbing power.
When using a high-volume oil pump in a 455, Jim Burek, Performance Automotive Enterprises, recommends breaking in a new engine using the stock oil–pump pressure relief spring. This 40-psi spring should be good for 60–70 psi (with a high-volume pump) at the 2,000–3,000 rpm break-in speed you will run the engine. This allows the engine to be safely lubricated and not go overboard on the oil pressure. One hundred psi would put too much strain on the fresh bearings and can destroy the distributor gear, cam gear, and front cam bearing. If you see the oil pressure falling off, you can always swap in a bigger spring. A 30–40 psi oil pressure level is plenty at the low break-in speeds. If you don’t have a stock spring and are planning on running the big pressure spring (typically red), you can trim down the lower-pressure spring by 1-1/2 coils, which will yield excellent pressure when the engine is warm. Also, if you find that you need the big spring to make enough oil pressure, you have a serious problem. Too much bearing clearance or a heavily worn timing cover is the likely culprit, and the engine needs to be torn down. The same approach effectively remedies low pressure problems in the 350 and V-6 turbo engines. The oil-pump pressure relief springs are shorter, but use the same principles.
Euro Muscle — A Unique 1972 GSX
Dutchman Robert Noeken has a particular fancy for American classics. Purchased by Noeken in 2004, this 1972 GSX clone currently resides in the Netherlands. Jim Burek, of Performance Automotive Engines, El Paso, Texas, built the engine. It is a 455 stroked to 464, backed by an SP400 transmission. Noeken enjoys drag racing the car at Explosion race events, the car has been featured in a Dutch car magazine, and it has appeared in a Dutch TV show. This street-driven Buick runs as good as it looks. Time slips show 11.74 best quarter-mile ET. This GSX has won numerous Dutch OSL (Operation Street Legal) street racing trophies. The GSX trim package includes hood tach, front/rear spoilers, and correct decals. By the end of the 2005 season, the GSX won 4th place in the OSL championships and an 11th place in the Explosion championship.
The 455 was stroked to 464 ci and built by Jim Burek of Performance Automotive Engines. The engine features ported Stage 1 heads, 11.5:1 pistons, and a Poston intake.
Robert Noeken’s 1972 GSX clone has a storied history. The car was shuffled between various owners while Robert was trying to get his hands on it. He finally managed to purchase the car and had it shipped to the Netherlands, where it has been shown, cruised, and drag raced. The GSX even landed a part as the “meanest street racer” on a Dutch TV show.
Equipment Package:
• Jim Burek-built 464-ci V-8
• Stage-1 ported heads,
• Ross true 11.5:1 coated pistons and bearings
• Block O-ringed
• Deep sump oil pan
• MSD ignition
• S-divider lightweight aluminum intake
• Lunati cam; duration 251/273 at 0.050 inch
• Holley 850 DP carburetor
• Aluminum two-core radiator
• High-torque starter
• 2-inch Jet-Hot coated T/A headers; 3-inch full aluminized exhaust
• 3:73 12-bolt strong rear-end with C-clip eliminators
• Strange yoke
• 33-spline Moser axels
• LPW axel tube brace and LPW girdle
• Jim Burek-built T400 Switch-Pitch transmission and converter
• B&M shifter
• 6-point roll cage
• Factory bucket seats, console, and tilt column
• Front disc brakes
• Fiberglass hood
• Front and rear Koni drag shocks
The street-driven GSX runs 11.74 seconds in the quarter-mile, and this mighty Buick beats tuners and Euro-sport cars on a regular basis.
Nailhead engines used several oil pumps. The early 264 and 322 had beveled gears and different pickups. Top Nailhead builder Russell Martin recommends using the 1955–1956 pump in the 264 and 322. “I don’t think the beveled gears in the early oil pumps were better, just more expensive to manufacture,” Russell tells us. The 1957–1958 364 used an oil pump with a vacuum pump on it for wipers; a 1959–1961 oil pump eliminates the extraneous function. The 1962–1966 engines use one pump but have two different pickups, one for center sump and one for rear sump pans.
A really trick mod is to add a rear oil pressure gauge to the engine. By removing one of the rear freeze plugs (shown here), the oil pressure sending unit can be added with 90-degree elbow.
Rear Oil Pressure Gauge Installation
It is common for a Buick to show 4 to 5 less psi at the rear of the block than at the front. The trouble is, the stock oil-sending unit is located at the front of the block. There is a quick and easy way to add a rear pressure sensor so you can monitor the oil pressure at the rear of the block, or run two gauges and monitor both.
There are two ways of performing this task; one is a little more involved than the other. I prefer the following easier version. There are two pipe plugs at the back of the block, just above the freeze plug behind the cam. Remove the passenger-side plug. Install a 90-degree elbow that has 1/4-inch pipe threads on one side and compression fitting on the other. Be sure to wrap the threads with Teflon tape or other thread sealant. While you could use a copper capillary tube, the best feed line is a 1/4-inch braided line. This ensures the line will flex with the engine and not kink or break over time. Attach this line to the fitting. Drill a small hole in the rear of the engine, either up through the top, at the flat pad behind the intake, or to the driver’s side. Run the line through the hole and secure the line with a little silicone sealant to hold it in place. If done correctly, there will be plenty of clearance for the flywheel/flexplate. If you choose to run dual gauges, you will be able to monitor the pressure difference. If there is a substantial difference (10 psi or more) you can shut it down before any serious damage occurs.
Oil Pans
The 455’s stock oil pan is suitable for any street-driven engine, provided it does not rev past 5,500 rpm. When the engine starts spinning faster than 5,500 rpm, the oil pump often drains the pan, resulting in oil starvation. Some builders suggest that any Buick-powered car running 13s or less in the quarter-mile needs a 7-quart oil pan. Depending on your engine and how you plan on using it, there are a couple of choices. TA Performance and Poston Enterprises offer several oil pans that accommodate the 7- and 8-quart capacity and add some extra features (we will discuss these in the race engine section). Stef’s Fabrication Specialties offers a 6-quart aluminum oil pan designed to fit the Buick A-body (Skylark/GS) and maintain proper oil control. TA Performance also sells a larger capacity deep sump sheet metal oil pan for the big blocks.
Next, drill out the rear webbing (marked by the pointer) on the block to pass the line through. You should use a rubber or plastic grommet on this hole to protect the capillary tube or wire coming from the sending unit.
Welding the two pans together to create a larger pan is the last option. This is a good choice if you need the extra capacity for an engine up to 600 hp but don’t need the girdled aftermarket oil pans that can cost well over $500. Just be sure you use a good welder who is capable of stitching together thin sheet metal without burning it. This is also the only option for a 350; even Buick specialists do not make a bigger pan for the 350.
Motor Oil Considerations
Standard motor oils are not efficient enough to adequately cool and lubricate a high-performance engine, especially a Buick. That’s not to say that Buicks require ultra-expensive oil, but with their inherent oiling issues, truly high-performance oils are the best way to go.
MotorHead Classic heavy-duty oil is one of the best oils for a Buick. It has high concentrations of the anti-wear chemicals needed in older engines. Choosing the right viscosity is also very important. The thinner 5W-30 oils used in late-model engines will not have sufficient viscosity to shield your older, high-compression, larger-tolerance engine. Buick engines need heavier weight oil, such as 20W-40 or 20W-50, with the colder climates using 10W-40, for adequate lubrication. In addition, if you are running a mechanical non-roller cam, you will need oil with significantly better antiwear characteristics to keep your engine properly lubricated. Mechanical camshaft engines require racing oil with high levels of anti-wear additives, such as phosphorous and zinc. Some builders even suggest using four-stroke 20W-50 motorcycle oil. These oils have the correct chemistry and are safe for use in high-performance applications. Here is a trick: If you smell the oil and it smells a little like gear oil, then it probably has enough anti-wear chemistry and stabilizers to be sufficient to run in your big Buick.
For the blow-dried engines (we’re talking turbos here), the same types of oils are recommended. As an added bonus, you might try a little extra oil additive, like Lucas or Pro Blend. These add a little more stabilization that is needed for the high heat transferred to the oil by the turbo.
The 3.8-liter V-6 turbo engines use oil coolers to help remove the extra heat induced in the oil from cooling the turbo. Keeping the stock oil cooler clean and operating at its maximum capacity is paramount to keeping these high-powered engines cool. Better yet, upgrading the factory oil cooler to a high-performance four-core unit is a wise choice. The excessive heat generated in these engines has to go somewhere, and you certainly do not want it in the crankcase.
Street engines can benefit from a 7-quart oil pan. This stock steel pan has been modified to accept an extra quart of oil. The pick-up tube is constantly immersed in oil, even under heavy acceleration and cornering.
Choosing the right oil is a very important decision. This Royal Purple oil is specially formulated for high-performance and race engines. It has the right levels of zinc and other high-wear additives that are crucial to high-
Written by Jefferson Bryant and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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