Fitting the new door panel onto the car takes a little finesse. Dry fitting the panel will prevent unforeseen issues with the alignment of the panel fasteners. If the fasteners do not line up directly with the fastener receptacle, now is the time to re-clock the clip or make an adjustment to the panel board to ensure the fastener will work properly. Centering is also key to preventing damage to the edges of the cover material, so check the end alignment of the panel. If you are happy with the overall fit, the panel can be fastened in place.
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It helps the installation process if the door glass is lowered into the door for full-coverage door panels. Door panels with an attached cap fit over the top of the door and are locked in place by retainers mounted to the top of the door. The window sweep should rub lightly onto the inside of the door glass when it is raised or lowered. Remember to insert the door lock rod through the lock ferrule before fully setting the panel onto the door. Door panels that do not have an attached cap panel are slid under the retainer molding on the door.
Panel Fasteners
Early-model wood-frame cars commonly attached a trim panel with small headless nails called brads. The brad pierced the fabric cover of the panel as it was driven through the panelboard and into the hardwood frame of the car. A curved needle was used to lift the cover material over the nailhead to conceal it. To remove the panel from the car, a tack lifter was used to pry the panel off the brad and leave it embedded in the wood. The brad was then removed with pliers or claw hammer.
Steel-body cars use a variety of fasteners to attach the panels. Some panels use a metal edge band with ribbed nails attached. These nails mate with a nail cup along the outer ends of the inner door. Spring-loaded wire clips are another popular fastener used to secure the door panel in place. The fasteners are clipped onto the backside of the panel and inserted into a small hole in the metal surface of the door.
Modern plastic door panels are held in place with Christmas tree fasteners. These are single-use fasteners that push into the metal door and hold the panel securely in place.
Installing Clips
Most door panels have precut openings in the panel board to allow the insertion of a panel fastener. The positioning of the clip is usually determined by the direction of the cutout. Panels that have a round opening are a little more difficult to align until they are matched up with the receptacle opening in the door. The clip can easily be re-clocked to mate with the receptacle to allow a precise fit.
It’s best to prefit the fasteners in the door panel while it is still on the workbench. Cover the workbench with a towel before placing the door panel face down on the bench. Insert the lower leg of the clip into the fastener hole and advance it until it is fully seated against the edge of the opening. If the panel board is thicker than the gap in the leg of the clip, spread the clip open a little to allow it to slide over the panel board without damaging the panel.
After the clips are installed, the door panel can be fit onto the door. Visually check the alignment of the fastener to the receptacle. If the fastener is in the wrong position, it can be re-clocked to help it mate with the anchor point. In the case that the fastener still does not reach the anchor, you may need to alter the panelboard to allow the fastener to align properly.
Insert the Christmas tree fasteners into the panel by twisting them into the fastener hole. The fastener holes are usually elongated to allow for some variance in the fastener anchor point. These are usually a one-use fastener, so be careful when anchoring the panel.
Setting the Fastener
Once the door panel is properly aligned, the tips of the fasteners should be set into their respective anchor points to ensure that they will go directly into the door. You do not want to cause any damage to the surface of the door panel, so it is best to use a soft rubber mallet to lightly tap the fasteners to fully seat them. Please take a word of advice from a veteran in this trade: avoid using your fist as a mallet. This will save you from a lot of pain in the years to come.
Anchor Screws
One feature that is very common with many door panels is the use of trim screws to secure the bottom edge of the panel. Due to the use of a foot to help open the door, this rough treatment causes most fastener clips or blind cleats to fail. A stronger method of attachment was needed to keep the panel in place.
Typically, there were four or five trim screws evenly spaced across the bottom of the panel. When you are ready to fasten the bottom of the panel, it may be quicker to measure
This door panel is keyed with a flat edge on the keeper hole to indicate the proper indexing of the metal door panel fastener. The plastic Christmas tree fastener simply turned into an oval slot on the plastic molded door panel.
and drill new holes in the door. However, locating and using the original anchor points is not difficult and is more authentic to the installation.
The original anchor holes can be located by using a regulator. If you lift the bottom of the panel, the anchor point can be indexed by placing the tip of the regulator in the screw hole and pinching the shaft of the regulator along the bottom of the door.
This measurement can then be transferred to the face of the door panel by realigning the regulator in the same vertical position. At this juncture, push the tip of the regulator into the door panel and pierce the panel board. After the regulator has passed through the panel, the screw hole should be very close to the new hole in the panel. If not, move the tip of the regulator in a small circular motion to locate the screw hole.
A 3/4-inch #8 oval-head trim screw with a flush washer is then inserted into the hole and tightened with a Phillips-head screwdriver. The screw should hold the panel securely to the door without dimpling the cover material.
This door panel fastener was inserted in the wrong position to mate with the door anchor when it was installed on the panel. After the panel is removed from the car, the clip can be rotated 180 degrees to correct the problem.
The anchor screw position is located onto the front of the door panel by transferring the recorded position of the anchor hole with the regulator. Keep the measured distance as accurate as possible to prevent error in the screw placement.
Using the correct hardware during the installation of the door panel will give your project the authentic appearance that it came with from the factory. Wrinkles should not appear on the surface of the panel if the trim screws are tightened properly.
The position of the door panel anchor holes along the bottom of the door are located with the help of a regulator. Indexing the distance from the bottom edge of the door will give you a good idea on where to make the hole in the door panel.
No detail has been overlooked during the door panel’s assembly and installation. A final inspection is necessary to check for proper fit. You don’t want any premature damage or wear on the panel from rubbing or misalignment.
Fitting Door Hardware
You should be able to see a small lump in the cover material of the door panel to indicate the location of the window regulator post. Use a pair of scissors to cut away a small circle in the cover material to expose the post. The hole should be large enough for the splined shaft to come through and yet small enough to cover the opening with the window crank.
A protective escutcheon is placed behind the window crank to protect the door panel cover material from wear when the crank is rotated. This simple nylon disc is often forgotten or ignored when the crank handle is installed. For the small cost of the escutcheon, why wouldn’t you want to keep your interior from wearing out before its time?
One thing to keep in mind when the escutcheon is installed is that the cover material of the door panel should be cut away just enough to allow the recess in the escutcheon to rest inside. This will allow the crank to fit properly and turn without any binding.
Prior to the window crank being installed, the window needs to be raised so that the crank can be clocked correctly. Make sure that the retainer clip has been removed and the escutcheon is behind the crank when the window is raised. Install a new retainer clip in the window crank to prepare it for installation. The C-shaped clip is inserted into the small slots in the internal shaft of the crank with the open portion of the clip facing toward the handle or knob end of the device.
Place the escutcheon behind the base of the window crank, index, or “clock,” the handle or knob end of the crank at 2 o’clock, and press it onto the splined window regulator shaft. When properly seated, the base of the window crank will rest flush with the surface of the door panel.
Attachment of a window crank with a screw-type fastener is the same as described above with the exception of inserting the screw to secure the crank to the regulator post. Some cranks also require the application of a foil decal disc to cover over the screw fastener. Verify the function of the window by rolling it up and down, and make adjustments if necessary.
Installing the Window Crank
After locating the window regulator post, cut a small hole in the door panel to reveal the splined end of the post. The window can now be rolled all the way up to allow the proper position of the window crank.
This thin plastic disc is designed to protect the surface of the door panel from abrasion when the window crank is turned. The escutcheon will also help protect the door panel from damage when a window crank removal tool is used.
A retainer clip should have some movement when seated in the shaft of the crank to allow the spring action of the clip to operate properly. The open end of the clip should face forward toward the knob end of the window crank.
To prevent your knee from hitting the window crank, install it at any comfortable position to give you room to operate the window. For visual uniformity and usability, the window crank on the driver-side door is usually set at the 2 o’clock position.
This lever-style door release handle was pushed onto the exposed actuator shaft. A small spring clip keeps the handle from falling off of the post. An armrest base will be installed over the post to conceal the base of the release handle.
Details, no matter how small, are very important. Worn and shabby pieces will spoil the overall appearance of the door panel. Something as simple as threading a new chrome-plated lock knob onto the lock knob shaft will brighten the interior of the car.
Door Release Handle
Note that some release handles are completely exposed, and others are partially concealed by the armrest base. The fitment of the door release handle is similar to the window crank. First, locate the bump in the door panel and cut a small opening in the cover material to allow the splined shaft of the door opener to come through. Carefully enlarge the hole to be no larger than the shaft of the release handle. The edges of the hole should be trimmed neatly.
Insert a new retainer clip into the slots in the post of the lever and push the release lever onto the shaft. A variation of securing the lever is to use a machine screw to hold the lever onto the post.
Armrest Base
Depending on the type of armrest base your car requires, there may be two or three large sheet metal or machine screws needed to hold it onto the door. Door panels that do not have precut mounting holes in the cover material for the armrest will need to be cut to allow the locating posts on the base to index with knockouts in the panel.
Begin by feeling for the relief left by the knockout and use a regulator to locate the anchor holes in the underlying door. Cutaway the minimum amount of cover material to allow the armrest base to sit flush with the panel. The cutout will allow the mounting screw to reach the inner door without being obstructed. Tighten the screws just enough to hold the armrest firmly to the door without distorting or cracking the plastic.
Final Details
The last item to be installed is the door lock knob. This screws onto the lock post. Most of these devices are made of plastic and can crack if tightened too much. It is a matter of judgment on how far down to screw the lock knob. The top of the knob should be within 3/4 inch from the surface of the ferrule and yet easy enough to grab when in the down or locked position. The base of the lock knob should not extend above the ferrule when in the up or unlocked position.
Check the fit of the door panel and wipe off any smudges, grime, and fingerprints that were left behind during the installation. Make sure the door is unlocked and check to see how the door closes. Slowly close the door and watch for any pinching or binding along the edges. Roll the window up and down to ensure that it functions properly. If adjustments need to be made, loosen the panel and shift it to achieve a better fit.
Use large sheet-metal screws to secure the armrest base to the door. A regulator is used to help with the location of anchor holes. After the screws were started, the base was adjusted for fit, and then the screws were tightened.
Rear Trim Panels
There are some variations to consider when installing new upholstery to the rear section of the car. Cars with four doors have door panels that are installed just like the two-door models. Installation of rear quarter trim panels differ by bodystyle. Many cars may or may not have an armrest. The armrest can be a bolt-on type or a filler type that extends into the cab of the car.
Removal
Access to the rear trim panel is gained by removing the rear seat from the car. Push in on the lower edge of the bottom cushion to release it from the floor of the car. If your car has applied rear armrests, they will need to be removed to allow for the removal of the backrest. A #3 Phillips screwdriver is needed to remove the anchor screws holding the armrest base to the inner panel of the car.
After the lower cushion and rear armrests have been removed, you will be able to see the attachment hardware that secures the rear seat backrest to the car. Typically, there are two anchors that hold the seat frame to the rear floor. These fasteners are either metal tabs that are bent over a loop in the seat frame or sheet-metal screws with large attached washers that lock the backrest in place. Larger seats may also have a metal tab that threads through a slot on the lower outer seat frame. This tab can be lifted to allow the seat to be freed from the floor. After the backrest fasteners are lifted, the cushion can be lifted upward and out or the car.
Lower Armrest
Cars, such as convertibles and coupes with a short-width rear seat, most likely have a lower or filler-style rear armrest. The width of this armrest compensates for the inner wheel tub and conceals hydraulic cylinders used for moving the convertible top.
The exposed trim screws in the lower rear armrest have a decorative washer attached to the screw. The washer prevents the head of the screw from digging into the cover material, and it is made in such a way that it cradles the head of the screw, making it appear flush with the surface of the cover. A Phillips-head screwdriver is used to remove the trim screws.
There is another screw located near the rear edge of the panel that will need to be removed. After the retainer screws are removed, the panel can be lifted out of the car.
Upper Rear Panel
An additional filler panel may be secured to the back edge of the trim panel. Remove the fasteners on the inner backside of the trim panel and set the panel aside. Cars that have an upper window trim molding or a B-pillar molding will need to be removed to allow the panel to be lifted from the inner quarter panel. Remove the window crank so that the quarter trim panel can be removed.
The rear panel may have a top cap, or the top edge of the panel may be tucked under a trim molding. There are many different ways the panel can be attached to the car. One configuration uses panel clips to hold the front edge of the panel in place while the front edge of the panel butts up to the rear wind lace. Use a panel-lifting tool to get under the fasteners to separate the panel from the car. When the panel is removed, you will be able to remove the wind lace from the edge of the door jam and replace it if necessary.
Decorative oval-head washer trim screws hold the armrest in place. These screws anchor into small brackets that protrude into the cab area. An appropriate screwdriver is used to remove the screws in the front of the armrest.
This panel was attached to the car with nail-type fasteners. The ring shank fasteners were embedded into a tack strip, and a panel-lifting tool is used to pry the panel free. The new trim panel will be installed in the same manner.
Staples were used when this wind lace trim was installed. When the staples are removed, the wind lace can be removed to allow inspection of the underlying tack strip. New tack strip can be installed, if necessary, to ensure a good bond for the new wind lace and trim panel.
Another option uses the leading edge of the panel cover material wrapped over the pinch weld of the door jam and secured in place with a quick-edge wind lace. First, remove the sill plate to access the bottom of the wind lace. Carefully lift the lower end and pull it forward and off of the pinch weld. The cover material can now be pulled loose from the body of the car and the panel can be removed.
Panel Covers
There is a variation on some cars as to how the rear panel is fastened to the car. Cars with a soft-core wind lace will need to have the underlying tack strip inspected for viability. It must be in great condition so that it can hold a staple or tack. If it is damaged, it must be replaced.
Sewn foam-core wind lace is installed around the door opening before the headliner and door panel are installed. The seam of the wind lace runs along the edge of the pinch weld of the door opening, and the selvedge is attached to the tack strip with tacks or staples.
Installation of the rear trim panels is not very different than the installation of a door panel. The water shield is installed and then the panel is fit to the inner panel of the car. It helps if the new package tray has already been installed and the rear quarter window is in the lowered position.
Fit the trim panel to the rear quarter and check the alignment of the front edge of the panel board so that it does not extend past the pinch weld of the door jam. When you get the panel positioned correctly, it can be set onto the rear quarter window ledge.
Fastener Variations
Panels with nail fasteners take a little more finesse to attach. The front edge of the panel should butt up to the edge of the foam core and just cover the stitching of the wind lace. Working the panel from the top-down, place the nail fasteners on the tack strip and drive them into the tack strip with a dead-blow hammer. Use gentle taps to prevent the nails from breaking off when setting them into the tack strip.
Spring clip fasteners secure the front of the panel by lining up the tip of the fastener with their respective retainers. When the clip is positioned correctly, a light tap with a soft mallet will set the fastener into the receptacle.
Panels that are held in place by a quick-edge type of wind lace will need to be attached by applying contact cement to the leading edge of the panel material and pinch weld.
Because the tail section of this rear panel extends into and overlaps the package tray area, a new package tray was installed before the new rear trim panel was aligned and fit to the inner rear of the car. The new panel fits just like the original.
Rear trim panels require a water shield to protect the upholstery from damage. New water shields are available from most supply houses and are easy to install. They are worth the few dollars they cost to protect your new interior investment.
This panel is secured in place by wrapping the leading edge of the cover material around the pinch weld of the door jamb. A little glue is brushed onto the mating surfaces to help keep the panel in place until the pinch weld molding can be applied.
Inside of the quick-edge wind lace is a gripper bead and a metal spring core that helps hold the molding to the pinch weld of the car. A dead-blow hammer is used to help set the wind lace onto the wrapped edge of the pinch weld.
After the rear trim panel has been secured, cut an access hole into the cover material on the panel to reveal the splined window regulator post. A window crank handle will be fit to the post to raise or lower the window.
This thin plastic disc is called an escutcheon. It’s used to protect the surface of the door panel when the window crank is turned to raise or lower the window. The escutcheon is installed behind the base of the window crank.
A trim panel has been applied to the inside of the B-pillar to cover the rough structural metal on this sedan. A screwdriver is used to tighten the small finish screws that hold the decorative trim in place. 115
This rear trim panel and all of its components were compiled from new reproduction pieces. By taking the time to make small adjustments and paying attention to the details during the assembly and installation, the installation turned out well.
Armrests are a high-impact surface on a car, and they wear out fast. They begin to crack and discolor when body oil gets on the surface of the cover material. Solid molded armrests can easily be replaced with new and two-piece units can be rebuilt.
New door panels were installed to replace the worn and tattered originals on this Camaro. The deluxe interior option has a built-in armrest pad that is not serviceable if it becomes damaged. This style of panel deserves special care to keep it looking nice.
An older armrest can be reconditioned, but it will save you a lot of time and frustration if it can be replaced with a new part. Original-style individual and complete restoration components are readily available from most suppliers.
Installation of the replacement pad is the opposite of the removal of the old, worn pad. Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining screws from the backside of the armrest base. Fit the new pad to the base and reinsert the screws.
After the glue has reached a dry tack state, the material is wrapped around the pinch weld. The quick-edge wind lace is then applied over the panel material and pinch weld. Start at the top of the pinch weld and place the quick-edge trim over the cover material. Begin to tap the molding onto the pinch weld with a soft mallet to set it into place.
Cars with a post may have a trim panel that covers the metal. Once the quick-edge is secured, install the B-pillar trim panel. Use a regulator to locate the anchor holes and secure the small panel with the correct trim screws.
Appling Hardware
Expose the quarter window regulator post by cutting around the lump in the panel. A sharp pair of scissors or razor blade works well to create the opening. The post hole will be covered by the window crank so do not make the opening larger than the base of the window crank.
Before the window crank is installed, roll the window up to ensure the proper installation position of the crank. Use an escutcheon to protect the cover material of the door panel from the friction created by turning the window crank. Check to see that the spring clip has been removed from the crank and roll the window up. Remove the crank from the regulator post and reinstall the spring clip in the window crank. With the escutcheon behind the base of the crank, press the base onto the regulator post with the handle at the 2 o’clock position.
Armrests
There are many styles and types of armrests. Some are built into the door panel, and others are applied to the face of the panel. Most likely the armrest in your car is an applied type. These are attached to the door with large sheet metal screws. The screws go through the base of the armrest and anchor into the door.
The style of the armrest will vary from make and model of car. Solid armrests are one-piece units that are molded, and when the pad goes bad, they are difficult to repair and most likely will need to be replaced.
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Multi-piece armrests have an upholstered pad that is attached to a molded base. When the pad wears out, it can be repaired with a new foam pad and vinyl, or it can be replaced with a new piece. The base can also become damaged and need to be reconditioned or replaced. Cracked bases are a good candidate for replacement. Chrome-plated or painted bases that have a faded finish can be reconditioned, but it is almost always better to find a suitable aftermarket part to replace the worn part.
Front Armrest
It is not very difficult to replace the base and pad of the armrest. There are many quality replacements available for the more popular cars, and it only take a few minutes to install the new parts.
To replace a worn pad, turn the base face down on the workbench and remove the retaining screws from the pad. Dry fit the new pad to the base to verify that it is the correct part. There are many side-specific pads and bases, and you can easily get them turned around, so always check the fit. With the new pad in place, reinstall the retaining screws and tighten them to hold the pad securely to the armrest base. Be careful that you do not overtighten the screws. Take the new armrest assembly to the car and install it on the door with the correct mounting screws.
Rear Armrest
A feature that is found on convertibles and coupes are the large lower armrests that fill the space between the end of the rear seat and quarter trim panel. These armrests usually have an ashtray embedded into the top section, and many have a small courtesy light in the lower front.
This trim panel is covered in a matching upholstery and may need to be recovered to bring the entire interior back to that factory-new appearance. Once the panel has been removed from the car, the old cover materials can be stripped off and the base tins can be cleaned and recovered.
Old Materials
Age, weather, and neglect have taken a toll on the interior panels and their components. The old materials will need to be removed so that the underlying base can be reconditioned for use. Disassembly begins with the removal of the upper cylinder panel on convertible models.
To remove the trim pieces, turn the panel face down to get at the fasteners. From the backside of the trim panel, locate the retainers that hold the attached components in place. Lift out the ashtray from the retainer bezel and set it aside. Use a small prying tool to lift the retainer tabs on the ashtray bezel and lift the bezel from the panel.
If your panel has an applied trim molding, carefully lift the tabs and remove the trim. Take care when working on the trim moldings as they are sharp and fragile. The molding will need to be reconditioned before they are reapplied.
Glue was typically used to secure the old cover materials to the metal trim panel. From the backside of the panel, work the edge of the material loose from the edge of the panel and peel it away until the cover material is free from the base metal. Under the cover material will be some dried-out cotton padding that must be scraped off. Wear a dust mask to protect yourself when removing the padding.
The top of the base will have a thicker layer of padding. This may be cotton, jute, or foam. It will all need to be removed and discarded. After the bulk of the padding has been removed, clean the metal with a wire brush to remove any smaller debris and rust scale. Wipe the bare metal down with lacquer thinner to clean off any old oil or glue on the surface of the metal.
If the bottom edge of the panel has been damaged by rust, make repairs to the metal to bring it back to its proper shape. Hammer out any dents and give the panel a coat of paint to prevent any future corrosion.
Removing Old Armrest Material
The old panel hardware is removed by accessing and lifting the fasteners from the backside of the armrest panel to free the part from the panel. A staple puller is used to pry up on the bent-over retainer tabs on the ashtray bezel.
2 Decorative stainless-steel moldings were attached with small tabs that went through the panel and were bent over on the backside of the trim panel. The delicate tabs are gently raised with a tack puller to remove the trim molding.
The original cover material was held in place with contact cement after it was wrapped over the edges of the armrest base. A scraper can be used to get under the old cover to separate it from the inside of the base, and then it can be lifted off.
To make the rear seat experience a little more comfortable, the factory used multiple layers of cotton to pad the top of the armrest. Over time this material has become compacted and water damaged. Remove the cotton by scraping it off, and throw it away.
Installing a New Cover
Preparing the metal base starts by making new armrest pads. You can use a variety of materials for this, but I like to use jute carpet pad. The jute pad is soft but will hold up longer than foam or cotton. Roll out the padding on the workbench and lay the top of the base on the jute padding. Use a Sharpie pen to trace the perimeter of the panel. You want the pad to be at least 3/4 inch thick, so cut enough pieces to cover both trim panels.
Cut the padding from the roll and dry fit it to the base. To make the installation of the accessories easier, cut out for the ashtray and power window switch if your car is equipped with these options. After trimming the pad, spray contact cement onto the mating surfaces and align the pad to the base.
Look at the new presewn cover to determine if it has a built-in underliner. If it does not, cover the vertical surface of the base with an underliner felt-type material. Dry fit the new cover to the base and check the fit.
Remove the excess material from the seam by trimming it as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into the thread. This will help the cover material lay smoother along the edge of the base. When you are satisfied with the fit, spray glue along the top edge of the base and onto the inside of the cover without getting glue onto the jute pad. When the glue becomes dry to the touch, apply the cover material and work the seam along the upper edge of the base. You want to remove as many of the wrinkles as possible during this operation.
Spray glue onto the outer edges along the backside of the base and onto the extended cover material. Pull down from the bottom of the cover and wrap it onto the backside of the base. You will need to make relief cuts into the inner points of the base to allow the cover to wrap over the base without wrinkling.
Apply glue to the backside of the armrest surface and extended cover material and allow the glue to get tacky. Pull the material taut as it is wrapped over the outer edge of the panel. Make some relief cuts along the inner arch of the base and finish applying the cover material to the base. Check for wrinkles and make any adjustments necessary by lifting and repositioning the cover material.
Wrapping the Armrest Base
A simple and less-messy solution for the new armrest pad is to use jute carpet padding. To get a good fit, the top of the armrest makes a perfect template to trace for the new padding. The jute pad is also easy to cut and attach.
Before the new cover can be attached, the underlying padding must be secured to prevent the metal base from damaging the cover material. An even coat of contact cement is used to keep the jute pad in place on the armrest base.
Prefitting the new armrest cover is vital to getting a good finish. Attach the new cover in small increments to help get it positioned correctly and reduce the number of wrinkles that form by pulling it over the panel.
Securing the cover material to the metal base began by allowing the contact cement to set up before it was attached. Working the cover material in small sections and making the appropriate relief cuts reduces the chance for wrinkles to form.
Spray a thin, even coat of contact cement to the inner surfaces of the armrest to allow the new cover to bond nicely to the base. When the glue is dry to the touch, wrap the cover material around the edges of the base.
Fitting the stainless-steel trim molding onto a curved surface can be a little intimidating. Locating the mounting holes without breaking off the anchoring tabs can be a challenge if you do not prepunch the cover material. Fit the front first as you work toward the rear.
The ashtray has to have an opening cut into the new cover for it to be installed. To create the opening, make small cuts from the corners of the cutout in the base with a razor blade. This will also allow the trim bezel to be inserted.
When inserted properly, the ashtray bezel will cover the cuts made in the cover material. Use a small hammer to secure the bezel to the base by flattening the retainer tabs over the edge on the underside of the armrest base.
Fitting the Trim
From the backside of the panel, use a regulator to locate the through holes for the trim molding. Turn the panel face up and begin installing the trim molding from the front pin to the rear, inserting the pins into the indicator holes you made. Secure the trim on the backside by tapping the pins over with a tack hammer.
You can also use your own judgment on what items you wish to add to the trim panel. Not all the trim accessories need to be installed. I try to inform my customers that the ashtrays are not practical. You most likely do not want anyone smoking in your car or filling the ashtrays with gum wrappers, so the ashtrays can be omitted. This can save you the cost of buying new ones. If you choose to install the ashtrays, they are easy enough to fit.
Feel for the ashtray opening through the cover material. Use a razor blade to make an inward cut in the cover material from each corner. Be careful when cutting the cover; you want the edges of the retainer bezel to cover the cuts of the opening. Insert the retainer bezel into the opening and turn the base over. From the backside, use a tack hammer to bend over the locking tabs of the retainer. Do not bend over the side tabs; these are used to secure the ashtray in the bezel.
Convertible Upper Panel
If you are working on a convertible, install the upper panel covers in the same manner as the lower covers. When the upper panels are covered, they can be reattached to the lower panel with flat head trim screws on the inside of the panel.
If your upper panel had boot retainer snap studs, reinstall them now. Feel for the cage nut in the panel and use the tip of your Phil- lips screwdriver to make a hole in the cover material to allow the treaded stud of the snap to be reinstalled.
Convertibles have a small trim piece that is fit inside of the upper panel. This piece helps conceal the lower part of the top frame and hydraulic cylinder. The trim piece is typically made of metal and can be wrapped in matching cover material, painted, or sometimes is a colored piece of panel board. Trim screws are used to hold it into the forward corner of the upper trim panel.
The upper cylinder is attached by adding small trim screws to the backside of the trim panel along the lower edge. Use a regulator to locate the anchor holes in the base panel, and install the flat-head screws with a screwdriver.
This small trim panel is located inside the front of the upper trim panel. The only practical use for the panel is to hide the mechanical works of the convertible top. Two small trim screws are used to hold the trim panel in place.
Installing the Rear Panels
The wind lace was intended to hide the gap between the body and the door opening. This wind lace is attached to the underlying tack strip material with staples. After the wind lace is secured to the car, the new rear quarter trim panel can be installed.
Small relief cuts in the selvedge of the foam core wind lace help it contour to the door opening profile. The extra piece of material sewn to the wind lace is pulled down to cover the staples and fill the gap between the armrest base and wind lace.
This quarter trim panel uses nail-type fasteners along the front edge to hold it in place. A soft-faced dead-blow hammer is used to set it into the tack strip below. When the quarter trim panel is correctly fit, the front edge will cover the stitches in the wind lace. 1
Friction and pressure from raising the quarter window can cause the top of the trim panel to become displaced. By adding a small trim screw through the cap on the trim panel, it will stay in place and prevent damage to the trim panel.
Trim screws used to attach the armrest base have a special washer attached to make the highly visible fastener look more appealing. After the rear armrest is carefully aligned to the inner body of the car, the fasteners are tightened in place.
The installation of the rear armrest and quarter trim panel is now complete. If you take your time and pay attention to the little details, you can get results like this.
A sewn foam core wind lace is first applied to the rear edge of the door opening to help conceal the gap between the car body and the door. Place the top edge of the wind lace at the upper edge of the rear pillar and line the seam up along the edge of the door opening. Begin to staple the selvedge of the wind lace to the underlying tack strip. The bottom of the door opening is curved, and to help the wind lace, make some small relief cuts in the selvedge to allow the wind lace to gradually follow the profile of the opening.
The quarter trim panel is fit over the top edge of the window opening and the leading edge is aligned to cover the wind lace seam. A slight downward pressure is put on the panel to settle it in place as the panel fastening nails are driven into the tack strip with a dead-blow hammer. The fasteners are set from the top of the panel downward to help keep the panel from raising up when completely fastened.
To prevent the panel from coming loose when the window is raised, a small trim screw is added through the cap of the panel and driven into the body panel. Another screw is used at the rear of the panel to secure it to the car. The manual window crank can then be installed.
Now, the lower armrest panel can be set in place. However, before the armrest is secured, connect the courtesy light and power window wires. The front edge of the armrest should butt up to the edge of the wind lace, and the top edge must conceal the lower edge of the quarter trim panel.
Use washer head trim screws to secure the armrest. Use a regulator to pierce the front of the armrest, and then locate the screw hole in the anchor tab. Insert the trim screws and tighten them with a Phillips-head screwdriver. If the armrest has an upper convertible trim panel, you will need to add two additional trim screws much the same as the lower panel was attached.
Written by Fred Mattson and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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